Inhale - for two reasons, to savour the fragrances of the Vietnamese fare on offer and to tuck in that stomach, make your way around the tables packed in tightly, and get to a seat.

This little gem tucked in the back of Darlinghurst is packed come 7pm, any night of the week - so you’re advised to get there at the opening time of 6pm otherwise you’ll be forced(!) to have a drink at the newly renovated Green Park whilst you wait for your mobile to ring.

Freshness is the key to the dishes here, and you’ll see some are in limited supply. The specials board diminishes and so does the main menu - late diners, you’ve been warned!

Gawking around at the other diners, we make our choices in a When Harry Met Sally fashion. The pancakes are sizeable, no make that huge, banana blossom salad fragrant, the salt and pepper squid cooked to perfection, but the batter being the letdown - but it is still better than many variants on this dish kicking around town.

It’s frantic in here, you could be in an out in a hurry, or kicking back and enjoying a bottle of wine, which ever way you choose, you can’t lose when you regard the price.

Returnability: Phesh. Phast. Phlavoursome. That means yes.
Score: 12.5/20

Entrees $9 to $12. Mains $13 to $19.5.
BYO ($1 corkage per person)
354 Liverpool Street, Darlinghurst, NSW.

Just off Oxford Street, hidden amonst residential apartments is Uchi Lounge. A bar downstairs, we bypassed this and head up to the restaurant – a long narrow room divided by hanging silk material. Nothing’s changed too much since my last visit, about six years back, it’s still complete, or is it incomplete with its minimalist fit-out that’s as far away from your standard aluminium and white marble bistro as can be.

Cutting straight to the food, we selected the tasting menu - rare beef with wasabi mash wasn’t overly rare, but the mash had enough wasabi to fend off my wasabi-hating partner and allow me to enjoy. Prawn and fish balls with green sea salt were served ridiculously hot, but the green tea salt was a smart twist on the salt, but either due to the fact I was searing my tongue on these super-heated fried balls I inhaled the very fine green tea powder and gave myself an eye-watering experience with two causes. The simple kingfish sashimi and mushrooms with basil pesto were easily the highlights – the latter, a large serving of earthy mushrooms with a wonderfully sweet pesto sauce.

Unfortunately, the service was something to be reckoned with on the night. The food came fast – too fast in fact, there was no recognition of how quickly we were eating and food started piling up on the table. I requested that they slow down the service and they did to a small extent, but certainly not enough. At one time there were three dishes on the table – not good enough.

We chose the green tea crème brulee and the black sesame tart for dessert.  The brulee had great flavour but the sugar on top had been blackened far too much and left a sharp, bitter taste. On the other hand, the slate grey tart was lacking in flavour.

Back to that service – whilst it was chipper, it really did lacki in knowledge of the kitchen and some serving basics. With no wine coolers available, we asked for our wine to be stored in the fridge, and this was done without issue. However, when we requested another glass, our bottle returned and was emptied into two bucket-sized glasses. To say I was gobsmacked was an understatement.

This restaurant could be so much more – some decent service for starters would go along way in bringing this restaurant up a notch. In fact, it is the service that is so greatly detrimental to this establishment – until it was improved, I’d avoid, which is a shame as the food is priced decently.

Returnability: Perhaps - did I mention the service? Priced well, it’s cheap and cheerful without being daggy.
Score: 12/20

Degustation - Two courses $35. Three courses $45.
Entrees $5.50 to $12.50. Mains $14.5 to $19.5. Dessert $7.50 - $8.50
BYO ($3 corkage per person) and licensed with a short, yet quirky wine list.
15 Brisbane Street, Surry Hills, NSW.

The Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide Awards for 2007 were announced at Guillame at Bennelong last night. Drumroll please…

Restaurant of the Year: Becasse, City
Chef of the Year: Katrina Kanetani, pastry chef - Pier, Rose Bay
Best New Restaurant: Bentley Restaurant & Bar, Surry Hills
Best Regional Restaurant: Fins, Byron Bay

Bilson’s, Claude’s, est., Guillaume at Bennelong, Marque, Pier, Quay, Tetsuya’s.

Aria, Becasse, Bentley Restaurant & Bar, Bistro Moncur, Buon Ricordo, Iceberg’s Dining Room & Bar, Lucio’s, Omega, Pello, Pier Tasting Room, Pilu at Freshwater, Rockpool, Sean’s Panaroma, Yoshii.

Alchemy 731, Assiette, Astral, The Bathers’ Pavilion Restaurant, Billy Kwong, Bird Cow Fish, Bistro CBD, Bistro Moore, Bistrode, The Boathouse on Blackwattle Bay, buzo, Catalina Rose Bay, Coast, Fish Face, Flying Fish, Forbes & Burton, Forty One, Galileo, Grand National, Il Piave, Jonah’s, La Sala, Longrain, Lo Studio, Lotus, Mezes at Omega, Milsons, Otto, Restaurant Atelier, Restaurant Balzac, Restaurant Sojourn, Sailors Thai Restaurant, Three Weeds, The Wharf, Ying’s.

Good Food Guide Editor Picks
Favourite bistro: Bistrode, Surry Hills
Favourite Mediterranean: Vini, Surry Hills
Favourite Asian: Billy Kwong, Surry Hills
Favourite pizza: La Disfida, Haberfield
Favourite yum cha: Marigold Citymark, Haymarket
Favourite bar: Bambini Wine Room, city
Favourite cafe: Brasserie Bread, Banksmeadow

Compare this with the winners list of 2006. There’s quite a few newly opened restaurants that have hit the top tiers, and that can only be a good thing. The new comers to the ranks include Bentley, Alchemy 73, Assiette, Billy Kwong, Bird Cow Fish, Bistro Moore, Bistrode, Forbes & Burton, La Sala, Lo Studio, Mezes at Omega, Soujourn, with Sailors Thai returing to the one-hat tier. Pier Tasting Room and Mezes at Omega are defined as new, and separate entries, even though the premises are shared with their siblings, the menus are certainly separate.

And to balance the equation, there’s quite a few that have lost hat status this year, with Perama, Golden Century, sushi e, Manta, Post and Sea Treasure all hatless, with Bistro Lulu having closed.

I’ve also neglected to mention the regional hatters, and once again our favourite regional eat, Solitary at Leura Falls is adorned with two hats. With Marque in our sights in a few weeks time, plus some more interstate guests, and further birthday celebrations impending, I’ll have to start getting my 2007 list prepared!

We’ve been to Spice I Am quite a few times since the first review in September 2005 and in that time we’ve given the menu a right royal seeing to (if you’ll pardon the pun!).

The many ‘specials of the day’ and the house specialties - over that time we’ve certainly found our favourites: the red duck curry with lychee and thai pea eggplant, the crispy pork belly with equally as crispy basil and chilli, the yellow fish curry, steamed inside a banana leaf, simply known as Ho Mok and many others that I can’t remember without a menu in front of me.

However, the same passion for Spice I Am isn’t quite there any more. It’s not because we’ve eaten there too often, nor is it due to spritely wait staff being too eager or the occasional surly staff member being to gruff and wanting to turn your table so the next group can sit.

Far from the above, but I can’t help feel there’s been a decline in the standards – most noticeably with our most recent visit. You have to remember that it’s not a fine diner, so you shouldn’t go back expecting the bar to be raised each time, with something new or something different.

Our lemongrass chicken was overly peppery, with overcooked chicken and lemongrass that once had flavour and fragrance. The open bucket flounder was oily and without much flavour, and the red duck curry with lychee was as tasty as ever, but lacking enough duck content. And, are those servings of Ho Mok getting smaller?

Was it an off night? Perhaps? However, it has been gradually decreasing for some time we feel. Yes, it’s still good, and one would think that since the fuss of the restaurant has died down a little, they’d be able to concentrate in the kitchen instead of working in hyper drive – but I’m not so sure.

Returnability: It’s hard to complain when it will only set you back $25 to $30 per head – really quite hard, but when you get accustomed to what that normally brings, one can have a few words. That said, get a lunch takeaway (Tuesday to Friday) for unbeatable value.
Score: 12/20

Entrees $5.5 to $10.9. Mains $10.9 to $24.9. Dessert $6.5
No bookings. No cards.
BYO (no corkage).
90 Wentworth Avenue, Sydney, NSW.

Paua is a species of abalone found around the waters of New Zealand. Its colourful, iridescent shell was traditionally used by Maoris to illuminate the eyes of their carvings. It is also the name of a modern Mediterranean styled restaurant at the Cleveland Street end of Crown Street.

A rustic small room adorned with contemporary artwork backs on to an open kitchen where the staff can be seen working feverously. Zesty thyme and lemon green olives with are served up as we enjoy a glass of champagne, not from their menu, but thanks to their BYO license, we’re able to indulge in a few specials from home.

Service was snappy and consciences with one person attentively running the floor downstairs on a Saturday night. Earthy tones of the Jerusalem artichoke brulee are subtly complemented with the sweetness of the caramelised baby beetroot. Calamari with chorizo and chermoula is warming - just enough chilli and paprika present. The calamari itself cooked perfectly and matched with the unusual coupling of the sausage. The Zarzuela, a Catalan seafood stew of fish, prawns and tomato was heavy on the tomato and liquid, lacking any real depth. The unfortunate sole prawn overcooked and wanting to be elsewhere.

In all my dining years, I don’t think I’ve consumed more than one brulee in a sitting, tonight the vanilla brulee was too tempting for dessert, and like the first it passed with flying colours, a subtle flavour with a wonderfully creamy texture. All in all, this is a value for money restaurant, and even more so if you take into account the option of bringing your own. That said, if you don’t BYO, don’t fret as there’s some interesting wines on the list, including the Spanish Beronia Crianza 2004 Rioja amidst wines from New Zealand and Argentina.

Returnability: Fantastic value for money. Check out the Cassoulet nights they run on the last Tuesday of every month during the cooler months.
Score: 13/20

Two courses $35. Three courses $45.
Entrees $16. Mains $25. Dessert $12.
BYO ($6 corkage) and licensed with a short, yet quirky wine list.
555 Crown Street, Surry Hills, NSW.

Looking for a decent pub that has good food, and not trying to be a fine diner? Searching for mains around the $20 mark so as not to break the budget? Whether it be a late night home from work and cooking’s in the “too hard” basket, or somewhere for a casual meal with mates and a beer or three - the search has started, and with few great results at this point in time. I’d love to hear what your thoughts and secrets are as well.

The Porterhouse
Great Guinness plus football from around the globe is always on offer. The food on offer here is a cut above your typical pub fare, moreover it’s seriously good food offered in a pub environment at bargain prices. The Blue Eye Cod Fillet with saffron mash in tomato and garlic ($21.5) was flavoursome and sized well. The Guiness pie ($17.5) is also a treat, wonderful meaty chunks and vegetables in a flavoursome gravy. Only notable downside was that desert took 25 minutes to arrive.

Score:
Where: Corner of Campbell and Riley Streets, Surry Hills NSW

Cargo Bar
Isn’t there something disturbing about your meal appearing five minutes after you ordered? Toast and my morning coffee take 5 minutes. Pizza doesn’t.

Score:
Where: King St Wharf - 52 The Promenade, Sydney NSW

The Chamberlain
Bar service is nothing special, however it’s the food leaves a lot to be desired. The big man running the show shows little respect for his customers unless you’re attractive and female. Rumour has it that there’s new face in the kitchen, but I’ve been scarred and as I don’t work near the hotel anymore, I’m unlikely to return.

Score:
Where: Corner of Campbell and Pitt Streets, Sydney NSW

The Clock
Multiple bars, and a balcony that wants you to lap up the sun in the colder months. Great selection of local boutiques on tap including Crackenback Ale. A tasty tapas menu is on offer – the tasting plate reasonably priced, and perfect for two people on a Sunday afternoon.

Score: - not far from 2!
Where: 470 Crown Street, Surry Hills NSW

Equilibrium
Only kept alive by the Ernst & Young building inhabitants and lovers of r’n'bullshit on weekends. Quite simply, this bar is what the heart of a robot would look and feel like. A venue that is absolutely devoid of soul. A ridiculous number of beers on tap, 60-something infact, which might be appetising the lover of beer, however it often leads to many of the boutiques being stale when you order. Watch out when the Kirin and Crackenback Ale ’special offers’ – it means it’s clearance time and it’s usually not going to taste great. Also, do not sign up to any mailing lists or participate in business card drops as they have no ability to unsubscribe you, even if the responses advise you otherwise. Hopeless. Food, well… we didn’t get there and neither should you.

Score:
Where: World Square, 680 George Street, Sydney NSW - website

Martin Place Bar
There’s a bar and a bistro, but the bistro is in the bar, or is the bar in the bistro? Could I eat from the bistro menu in the bar or vice versa. Also, I didn’t realise I had to order from the bar for the bistro. Shouldn’t the bistro have table service? Confused? So was I. Penne with pork and fennel in a tomato & rosemary sauce ($14.0) was quite flavoursome, but it wasn’t because of the fennel which seemed completely absent. The high level of fat in the pork mince wasn’t something to write home about either. The baby cos salad ($12.0) was a Caesar variant in disguise and was more leaf than anything else.

Score: Neutral
Where: 51 Martin Place, Sydney NSW - website

3 Wise Monkeys
Speak no evil, hear no evil and see no evil? Nice idea, but pity about the execution. The food is evil, the drink is evil, the clientele are mostly evil and this equates to one terrible venue. Bottled wine is watered down (you’ll notice it’s never opened in front of you), as are the spirits. This venue epitomises any bar on George St south of Park Street. Avoid at all costs.

Score: (Thinking about a 3rd “thumb’s down” rating)
Where: 555 George Street, Sydney NSW - website

Back in the heady dotcom days, I used to attend the Domain get-togethers that used occur once a month in the bar on the top floor of the Adelphi Hotel in Flinders Lane. A well-stocked bar to quench our thirst and a lap pool to cool our heels in during the hot Melbourne summer months was well patronised as we discussed the latest fad site to be developed, or the latest Internet agency or business concept to acquire ridiculous amounts of venture capital to get up and running - which was normally flitted away on launch parties with too much alcohol and everything else.

Six years have passed since the demise of the dotcom era, and on Saturday night we wandered down the stairs to ezard at adelphi, the life-long ambition of Teage Ezard, whom opened the restaurant in 1999. And yes, that’s a lower case ‘e’.

With both a degustation and a la carte menu available, we selected the degustation and waited in anticipation.

Fresh breads were served with a selection of spices - bonito flakes with sea salt, Sichuan and prickly ash, and a Chinese-influenced sweet and salty concoction, all adhering to the bread with the aid of a fresh parmesan-infused olive oil.

For two of our party, the first course brought trepidation - their first time trying an oyster. A Japanese inspired oyster shooter, sweet and sour - with mirin and sake the dominant flavours. The first timers had no problems downing the shooter - the advice, ‘Don’t chew, just swallow!’ was heeded, and to their suprise both oyster virgins enjoyed the flavour.

Those oysters!

From there we moved into more comfortable territory, yet the combinations to come were bursting with exuberance.

A tartare of Yellowfin tuna was light with further depth enhanced by the bonito mayonnaise. Served on spoons, it was necessary to eat each one whole to pull all the flavours together. White fish dumplings in a Tom Ga broth with coconut and lime simply left me wanting more.

Next up was a modern take on the fig wrapped in prosciutto, this time with a wonderfully sweet balsamic reduction. The goats curd, tart and complimenting the rich, chocolate coloured balsamic. The influences of China and Thailand continued with another take on gazpacho - this time with grilled ocean trout atop a salad of fennel and mint salad. Served with crème fraiche, it gave the soup a creamier flavour and added some weight to dish.

The five spiced pork belly with a blood plum and apple salad finished with a ginger wine glaze was fresh at first taste, but felt heavy and lacking the excitement of the previous dishes. Certainly not a favourite amongst the group, but in all fairness, it was far from poor, indeed
above average.

Sichuan peppered duck, rolled in black and white sesame with a Shaosang wine, ginger and chilli dressing was a well-received comeback after the disappointment of the pork belly. Just a little bite in the dressing cutting through the strong flavour of the quality game.

The bitter chocolate torte, choc-mint sorbet and wedge of peppermint crisp was even enjoyed by the most hardened savoury and cheese platter fanatic.

Service was impeccable - quite simply, some of the best I have experienced. Swift, not overbearing, and an uncanny knack to know something was desired when someone merely lifted their head, prior to seeking attention. Our waiter was well primed to don his sommelier hat
and provide advice at multiple price ranges across the extensive wine list. Each course as it arrived was described in-depth, and was also a learning experience. Rather than overwhelming the diner with all the ingredients used in the menu, it’s far easier to describe the dish when
it’s sitting in front of you.

Returnability: Yes. Take an aromatic Asian adventure with a twist of Mod Oz. It may be at the top end of town, but you get what you pay for and more.

Score: 17.5/20
Degustation $130 per person. Matched wines an additional $90 per person.
Entrées $4.5 to $23.5. Mains $34.5 to $48.5. Desserts $19.5 to $41.5.
Exceptional and extensive wine list with local and international selection.
Check for pre-theatre and special dining menus.

ezard at adelphi
Downstairs, 187 Flinders Lane
Melbourne, Victoria

We were off to Café Mint when a last minute suggestion saw us head over to Waterloo. Having heard many a good thing, I was certainly keen to give it a try.

Quite a large space, much larger than I was expecting – for what reason I do not know. An old warehouse converted in a spartan fashion with dark brown perhaps black plywood panels affixed to one side of the room with an interlocking pattern of Carrick bends cut out from it with an open kitchen up one end.

The breakfast menu was quite simplistic, a lot more basic than I thought it might have been. With not a lot taking my fancy I chose the slow cooked broccoli served on scrambled eggs and toast with fetta and parsley, whilst K plumped for the sour cherry toast with a selection of jams and the breakfast grains with mango, honey and sheep’s milk yoghurt. The sour cherry toast was quite subdued in flavour but the orange and walnut marmalade was wonderfully tart. The breakfast grains it was more a case of yoghurt with grains and fruit with a large amount of honey and mint – this was certainly no issue and was by far the best item we ordered. The broccoli on scrambled eggs was solid (in fact the broccoli was reminiscent of the way the broccoli is cooked in this dish) , the fetta adding a wonderful saltiness.

Served was friendly and helpful, however it did take 15 minutes to get some water. The coffee whilst decent was certainly not brilliant. Be warned that breakfast finishes at 11am.

Returnability: Yes, and I’d certainly like to try lunch or dinner here. Some great variety here and at these prices it’s hard to beat. Note - check what the in season house preserves are - you might find yourself simply ordering toast as they are some of the best.

Score: 13/20
Breakfast $4.5 to $15.5. Coffee $3.0
Fully licensed
1/2 Danks Street, Waterloo

There are a few restaurants in Sydney that have that wow factor that extends beyond the palate. Sydney’s coastal and harbour locations give us to die for vistas - there’s nothing more amazing than watching a storm rolling in at Bondi beach, and you can either be eating fish and chips on the beach or be tucked up inside the glass walls of Icebergs with a drink not more than a moment away.

Aqua Dining is nestled in between Luna Park and the North Sydney Olympic pool at Milsons Point a stone’s throw from the Harbour Bridge. With the city skyline, Opera House and bridge all viewable with a single glance, it makes this location a perfect setting to bring an out of town guest.

A complimentary shot of tomato and prawn soup was served up prior to entrees of the Yamba prawn tartlet, served with a Persian feta, creamed leek and salsa verde and tuna carpaccio - with a crab and celeriac remoulade.

The tartlet is a signature dish for Jeff Turnbull, the succulent and enormous prawn hard to surpass, however it was the yellow fin tuna carpaccio that was outstanding with the complimentary flavours of the crab and celeriac. Tuna carpaccio would be one of my all-time favourite dishes, and here was an exemplary example.

With a lengthy and deep wine list on offer we selected a Riesling to accompany the roasted fillet of blue eye cod and the barramundi fillet. The cod was served atop a bed of pea and lemon risotto accompanied by grilled scampi and pancetta. The peas bursting with flavour – this with the citrus flavours complimenting the cod fillet to perfection. The barramundi was served with large basil gnocchi, asparagus and ocean trout roe. It was one of those nights where I ‘won’ with both dishes, which is quite an unusual event.

As I finished K’s risotto, she no sooner had complimented the flavour with the last of the bottle of wine. The wait staff with no hesitation provided another glass of wine at no charge. This was typical of the whole service experience for the evening. Always there when you wanted something, but certainly not intrusive.

With my arm twisted, I chose the strawberry and basil soufflé. A strawberry soufflé ordinarily might be considered quite mundane, however the addition of the basil was certainly unusual, yet it was far from being out of place. Perfect for those who ordinarily would not order a sweet dessert, and considering that nine times out of ten I will order a soufflé, this was certainly one of quality. The vanilla and cherry crème brulee was rich with a generous serve of cherry ripple ice-cream and a definite safe bet for those who think basil might be best kept for an entrée or main.

This was a dinner experience that was hard to fault in all aspects of dining.

Returnability: Without a doubt – the only comment being the mains which I felt were perhaps slightly overpriced, however one should remember that you will pay for a location such as this.

Score: 17.5/20
Monday to Saturday dinner menu: Entrees $25.0 to $28.0. Mains $35.0 to $49.0. Dessert $19.0 to $23.0.
Fully licensed
Cnr Paul & Northcliff Streets, Milsons Point

There’s something comforting in having a local eatery that you can trust. You need the basics, a Thai restaurant that you can eat in or take away, the local pizzeria and a local serving up food that will satisfy you, your Mum or your little sister - and all within walking distance from home.

One of our favourites is Ill Baretto - famous in Sydney for serving up authentic and inexpensive Italian food in an informal manner.

Arriving mid-week and relatively early, we were able to secure the window bench without wait. If you leave it too late, you can leave your name with the staff and await a call whilst you can bide your time with a drink at the pub across the road. We attempted to dine here a few weeks back on a Friday night around 8pm and was told there was a 2 hour wait, so be warned.

It was a cause for a low-key celebration, a new job was in the wings - armed with a bottle of special red, and I knew what I was ordering without doubt. The duck ragu with parpadelle is something special here. A wonderfully rich sauce soaks coats the flat pasta with large chunks of flavoursome duck. The sauce is rich, but not so much that you’ll be keen to slurp it all up, so make sure you grab some bread to mop it up - that’s if you’ve got enough room, as the servings are large. Ever present staples include the arrabiata and puttanesca plus the gnocchi variations, all worthy of a try.

Dessert was a let down, the panna cotta was inviting, but the vanilla sauce was sickly sweet and overpowered the gentle flavour and interrupted the enjoyment of the fine texture.

Returnability: Without doubt. Duck lovers beware, you will become addicted and want nothing else which is a shame as there are some fantastic dishes available.

Score: 13.5/20
Entrees $6.0 to $15.0. Mains $11.0 to $19.5. Dessert $7.0.
BYO $1 per person
496 Bourke Street, Surry Hills
New South Wales