Back in the heady dotcom days, I used to attend the Domain get-togethers that used occur once a month in the bar on the top floor of the Adelphi Hotel in Flinders Lane. A well-stocked bar to quench our thirst and a lap pool to cool our heels in during the hot Melbourne summer months was well patronised as we discussed the latest fad site to be developed, or the latest Internet agency or business concept to acquire ridiculous amounts of venture capital to get up and running - which was normally flitted away on launch parties with too much alcohol and everything else.

Six years have passed since the demise of the dotcom era, and on Saturday night we wandered down the stairs to ezard at adelphi, the life-long ambition of Teage Ezard, whom opened the restaurant in 1999. And yes, that’s a lower case ‘e’.

With both a degustation and a la carte menu available, we selected the degustation and waited in anticipation.

Fresh breads were served with a selection of spices - bonito flakes with sea salt, Sichuan and prickly ash, and a Chinese-influenced sweet and salty concoction, all adhering to the bread with the aid of a fresh parmesan-infused olive oil.

For two of our party, the first course brought trepidation - their first time trying an oyster. A Japanese inspired oyster shooter, sweet and sour - with mirin and sake the dominant flavours. The first timers had no problems downing the shooter - the advice, ‘Don’t chew, just swallow!’ was heeded, and to their suprise both oyster virgins enjoyed the flavour.

Those oysters!

From there we moved into more comfortable territory, yet the combinations to come were bursting with exuberance.

A tartare of Yellowfin tuna was light with further depth enhanced by the bonito mayonnaise. Served on spoons, it was necessary to eat each one whole to pull all the flavours together. White fish dumplings in a Tom Ga broth with coconut and lime simply left me wanting more.

Next up was a modern take on the fig wrapped in prosciutto, this time with a wonderfully sweet balsamic reduction. The goats curd, tart and complimenting the rich, chocolate coloured balsamic. The influences of China and Thailand continued with another take on gazpacho - this time with grilled ocean trout atop a salad of fennel and mint salad. Served with crème fraiche, it gave the soup a creamier flavour and added some weight to dish.

The five spiced pork belly with a blood plum and apple salad finished with a ginger wine glaze was fresh at first taste, but felt heavy and lacking the excitement of the previous dishes. Certainly not a favourite amongst the group, but in all fairness, it was far from poor, indeed
above average.

Sichuan peppered duck, rolled in black and white sesame with a Shaosang wine, ginger and chilli dressing was a well-received comeback after the disappointment of the pork belly. Just a little bite in the dressing cutting through the strong flavour of the quality game.

The bitter chocolate torte, choc-mint sorbet and wedge of peppermint crisp was even enjoyed by the most hardened savoury and cheese platter fanatic.

Service was impeccable - quite simply, some of the best I have experienced. Swift, not overbearing, and an uncanny knack to know something was desired when someone merely lifted their head, prior to seeking attention. Our waiter was well primed to don his sommelier hat
and provide advice at multiple price ranges across the extensive wine list. Each course as it arrived was described in-depth, and was also a learning experience. Rather than overwhelming the diner with all the ingredients used in the menu, it’s far easier to describe the dish when
it’s sitting in front of you.

Returnability: Yes. Take an aromatic Asian adventure with a twist of Mod Oz. It may be at the top end of town, but you get what you pay for and more.

Score: 17.5/20
Degustation $130 per person. Matched wines an additional $90 per person.
Entrées $4.5 to $23.5. Mains $34.5 to $48.5. Desserts $19.5 to $41.5.
Exceptional and extensive wine list with local and international selection.
Check for pre-theatre and special dining menus.

ezard at adelphi
Downstairs, 187 Flinders Lane
Melbourne, Victoria

News to my ears and indeed my palate - the Bambini Trust Café expands into something a little more Melbourne, the Bambini Wine Room. I’m not sure why, but Sydney struggles with the concept of the wine bar. In short, it’s probably due to the archaic and greatly prohibitive liquor licensing laws, and secondly - the ‘plastique fantastique’ glam is good but forget about the class feel that Sydney seems to exude when venturing out and about.

Here’s what I thought of the café last time around. Here’s to adding another establishment to my ‘must try’ list for 2006 - cheers!

If you’re thinking of travelling to Argentina, it’s worth your while understanding that you’re probably better off not going if you’re a vegan. Vegetarians can get by, but Argentina is the meat lovers paradise. Real meat, not the processed crap you’ll find on top of a Dominos pizza, nor the type you’ll find on the shelves in your supermarket that’s been pumped full of antibiotics and never ever seen a blade of grass.

Steak is not a choice, it’s a lifestyle. Eating copious amounts of protein is an everyday thing - when the national average is twelve steaks per person, you’ve got to understand that eating steak is simply what you must do.

The afternoon steak is the workhorse steak, the backbone of the day. It’s the steak that gets you around the city, ensures a successful nap, steers you into the bar and (most importantly) gives you the mental clarity to choose the right cut of meat in the restaurant that night. Misorder the first steak and you will either find yourself losing steam by eight o’clock, when no restaurant is open, or scampering to find an awkward third bridge steak, to tide you over until dinner.

Argentina on two steaks a day. Also, Phil Chan’s been traversing the South American continent and is currently in Brazil. Check out his blog.

We were off to Café Mint when a last minute suggestion saw us head over to Waterloo. Having heard many a good thing, I was certainly keen to give it a try.

Quite a large space, much larger than I was expecting – for what reason I do not know. An old warehouse converted in a spartan fashion with dark brown perhaps black plywood panels affixed to one side of the room with an interlocking pattern of Carrick bends cut out from it with an open kitchen up one end.

The breakfast menu was quite simplistic, a lot more basic than I thought it might have been. With not a lot taking my fancy I chose the slow cooked broccoli served on scrambled eggs and toast with fetta and parsley, whilst K plumped for the sour cherry toast with a selection of jams and the breakfast grains with mango, honey and sheep’s milk yoghurt. The sour cherry toast was quite subdued in flavour but the orange and walnut marmalade was wonderfully tart. The breakfast grains it was more a case of yoghurt with grains and fruit with a large amount of honey and mint – this was certainly no issue and was by far the best item we ordered. The broccoli on scrambled eggs was solid (in fact the broccoli was reminiscent of the way the broccoli is cooked in this dish) , the fetta adding a wonderful saltiness.

Served was friendly and helpful, however it did take 15 minutes to get some water. The coffee whilst decent was certainly not brilliant. Be warned that breakfast finishes at 11am.

Returnability: Yes, and I’d certainly like to try lunch or dinner here. Some great variety here and at these prices it’s hard to beat. Note - check what the in season house preserves are - you might find yourself simply ordering toast as they are some of the best.

Score: 13/20
Breakfast $4.5 to $15.5. Coffee $3.0
Fully licensed
1/2 Danks Street, Waterloo

There are a few restaurants in Sydney that have that wow factor that extends beyond the palate. Sydney’s coastal and harbour locations give us to die for vistas - there’s nothing more amazing than watching a storm rolling in at Bondi beach, and you can either be eating fish and chips on the beach or be tucked up inside the glass walls of Icebergs with a drink not more than a moment away.

Aqua Dining is nestled in between Luna Park and the North Sydney Olympic pool at Milsons Point a stone’s throw from the Harbour Bridge. With the city skyline, Opera House and bridge all viewable with a single glance, it makes this location a perfect setting to bring an out of town guest.

A complimentary shot of tomato and prawn soup was served up prior to entrees of the Yamba prawn tartlet, served with a Persian feta, creamed leek and salsa verde and tuna carpaccio - with a crab and celeriac remoulade.

The tartlet is a signature dish for Jeff Turnbull, the succulent and enormous prawn hard to surpass, however it was the yellow fin tuna carpaccio that was outstanding with the complimentary flavours of the crab and celeriac. Tuna carpaccio would be one of my all-time favourite dishes, and here was an exemplary example.

With a lengthy and deep wine list on offer we selected a Riesling to accompany the roasted fillet of blue eye cod and the barramundi fillet. The cod was served atop a bed of pea and lemon risotto accompanied by grilled scampi and pancetta. The peas bursting with flavour – this with the citrus flavours complimenting the cod fillet to perfection. The barramundi was served with large basil gnocchi, asparagus and ocean trout roe. It was one of those nights where I ‘won’ with both dishes, which is quite an unusual event.

As I finished K’s risotto, she no sooner had complimented the flavour with the last of the bottle of wine. The wait staff with no hesitation provided another glass of wine at no charge. This was typical of the whole service experience for the evening. Always there when you wanted something, but certainly not intrusive.

With my arm twisted, I chose the strawberry and basil soufflé. A strawberry soufflé ordinarily might be considered quite mundane, however the addition of the basil was certainly unusual, yet it was far from being out of place. Perfect for those who ordinarily would not order a sweet dessert, and considering that nine times out of ten I will order a soufflé, this was certainly one of quality. The vanilla and cherry crème brulee was rich with a generous serve of cherry ripple ice-cream and a definite safe bet for those who think basil might be best kept for an entrée or main.

This was a dinner experience that was hard to fault in all aspects of dining.

Returnability: Without a doubt – the only comment being the mains which I felt were perhaps slightly overpriced, however one should remember that you will pay for a location such as this.

Score: 17.5/20
Monday to Saturday dinner menu: Entrees $25.0 to $28.0. Mains $35.0 to $49.0. Dessert $19.0 to $23.0.
Fully licensed
Cnr Paul & Northcliff Streets, Milsons Point

There’s something comforting in having a local eatery that you can trust. You need the basics, a Thai restaurant that you can eat in or take away, the local pizzeria and a local serving up food that will satisfy you, your Mum or your little sister - and all within walking distance from home.

One of our favourites is Ill Baretto - famous in Sydney for serving up authentic and inexpensive Italian food in an informal manner.

Arriving mid-week and relatively early, we were able to secure the window bench without wait. If you leave it too late, you can leave your name with the staff and await a call whilst you can bide your time with a drink at the pub across the road. We attempted to dine here a few weeks back on a Friday night around 8pm and was told there was a 2 hour wait, so be warned.

It was a cause for a low-key celebration, a new job was in the wings - armed with a bottle of special red, and I knew what I was ordering without doubt. The duck ragu with parpadelle is something special here. A wonderfully rich sauce soaks coats the flat pasta with large chunks of flavoursome duck. The sauce is rich, but not so much that you’ll be keen to slurp it all up, so make sure you grab some bread to mop it up - that’s if you’ve got enough room, as the servings are large. Ever present staples include the arrabiata and puttanesca plus the gnocchi variations, all worthy of a try.

Dessert was a let down, the panna cotta was inviting, but the vanilla sauce was sickly sweet and overpowered the gentle flavour and interrupted the enjoyment of the fine texture.

Returnability: Without doubt. Duck lovers beware, you will become addicted and want nothing else which is a shame as there are some fantastic dishes available.

Score: 13.5/20
Entrees $6.0 to $15.0. Mains $11.0 to $19.5. Dessert $7.0.
BYO $1 per person
496 Bourke Street, Surry Hills
New South Wales

Steak and a glass of red, or perhaps even a beer. It’s a pretty simple combination, and one many can’t go past. Especially if you’re a bloke, or that’s how the stereotype would have you think. Another blokey thing is keeping things simple – if I’m going to have my steak, I don’t want a jus reduction or anything fancy. Just sear it, slow cook it, give me some fries or one of those iceberg lettuce salads that Grandma use to make. None of this frilly rocket-weed business, or parmesan on my salad! Parmesan’s for pasta for God’s sake!

Situated down on Woolloomooloo wharf, the last restaurant on the line keeps it simple with its steaks – take your pick from fillet, rib-eye, striploin, rump, or a t-bone not for the faint-hearted, tipping the scales at half a kilo.

One shouldn’t forget the seafood either. The soft-shell salt and pepper crab entrée was divine - tender and juicy, served with earthy mustard greens, lime aioli and chilli jam. Oysters in three flavours, natural, Kilpatrick and chilli and coriander are medium sized and very fresh. The chilli and coriander must have been good as they were the first to be consumed and I missed out.

I selected the Angus strip-loin, a generous 400g slab of 150 day grain-fed certified Australian Angus Beef. Unfortunately, my steak was slightly overcooked – rather than send it back I consumed, and whilst it was more medium-rare than rare, the outside was almost crispy whilst the moistness was held in. Not far off from perfect for a steak on the grill.

If you’re in an alfresco dining mood and craving a top-shelf steak, it’s hard to surpass.

Returnability: I’ve had marginally better steak, but not at a better location.
Score: 12.5/20
Entrees $6.9 to $28.9. Mains $15.9 to $58.9. Dessert $9.90 to $27.9.
BYO $25 per bottle
The Wharf, Cowper Wharf Road
Woolloomooloo

China’s cuisine is renowned for being “in your face” - from the BBQ dogs visible in the markets to the kebabbed scorpions sold from grimey street stalls, however there is no simple way of describing Guo-li-zhuang.

Guo-li-zhuang is a new restaurant in Beijing with a specialised menu - every dish here will contain either the testicles or penises of a wide range of animals, from seals to ox, from goat to horse.

The deer and the Mongolian goat were surprisingly similar: a little stringy, they had the appearance and feel of overcooked squid tentacles. The Xinjiang horse and the donkey, on the other hand, were quite different. Though both came sliced lengthwise, and looked like bacon, the horse was light and fatty, while the donkey had a firm colour and taste. The testicles were slightly crumbly, and tasted better with lashings of the sesame, soy and chilli dips thoughtfully provided.

Read the complete article at The Telegraph.

A short motorbike ride from the centre of Hoi An led us to a hut-like building on stilts with a large decking area, all over water. Greeted by a middle-aged woman we were brought grilled prawns with lime, tamarind crab and lotus nut soup plus several other courses as we gazed across the Hoi An river in the midday sun - all the while consuming an icy cold Saigon Green beer, or three.

What’s your ultimate food moment? Here’s what Jamie Oliver, Bill Granger, Keith Floyd and even the Prince of Wales consider as their ultimate moments.

A short jaunt from home sees us amidst a multitude of Indian restaurants on Cleveland Street. With a hasty booking made an hour before, we were squeezed in. On arrival, the restaurant was serving only a few parties, but past 8pm, there was not a spare seat in the house.

The table layout in the restaurant certainly doesn’t allow for privacy – it certainly was of the ‘pack them in’ variety. The noise of the diners further amplified by the doof of the commercial dance in the background. I was bemused was this, and Kel was going to need to raise her voice to be heard!

The cheeky wait staff explained the specials and the details of the banquet. With the Stelvin unscrewed, we ordered the mixed entree plate. Generous in size, the samosas moist, the tandoori chicken portions smokey and flavoursome.

We selected the banquet option for mains - simply a selection of any two mains, accompanied by naans, pappadams, and the chutneys and cooling agents of ones’ choice.

We plumped with the prawn jhalfrezi and the lamb saagwala (one of my favourite Indian dishes); the serving sizes again were more than adequate (do I see a trend here?). The lamb being the standout, moist and tender cubes swathed in spinach.

The pappadams were a little on the oily side, the lime pickle lacked any punch whatsoever, a little disappointing.

Even more disappointing were the desserts. The mango kulfi and pistachio ice cream were icy and rock hard, seemingly frozen, defrosted and refrozen.

Returnability: Perhaps, and only with a group. The noise was too much, and I’m a deaf bastard.
Score: 12/20

Entrees $4.5 to $14.9. Mains $7.9 to $14.9. Dessert $2.5 - $5.5. Banquet $27.90 + $3 per seafood dish
BYO $2 per person
431 Cleveland Street, Surry Hills