One of my favourite restaurants in recent times around Sydney town, Omega (read the review from October 2005) - has closed its doors.

Word has it that owner Peter Conistis has been forced into bankruptcy and had no other alternative but to close the business, terminate employees and surrender control of the premises in the week before Christmas.

The United States Food and Drug Administration has banned the importation of Vegemite, outraging Australian expats in the US.

The crackdown was prompted because Vegemite contains folic acid which can only be added to breads and cereals in the US.

Expats say that the ban has been stepped up in recent time and is ruining lifelong traditions of having Vegemite on toast for brekkie.

Former Geelong man Daniel Fogarty, who now lives in Calgary, Canada, said he was stunned when searched while crossing the US border recently.

“The border guard asked us if we were carrying any Vegemite,” Mr Fogarty said.

Full story.

Update: Well, the FDA hasn’t banned Vegemite. The US government has dismissed media reports it had banned Vegemite.

“There is no ban on Vegemite,” US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) spokesman Mike Herndon said.

Media reports claimed American border officials were confiscating Vegemite from Australians as they entered the US.

The FDA, charged with policing America’s food supply, has not issued an “import alert” to border officials to halt the import of Vegemite.

Mr Herndon said the FDA was surprised by the media reports.

The controversy centres on folate, an ingredient in Vegemite.

Under US regulations, folate can be added only to breads and cereals.

“One of the Vitamin B components (in Vegemite) is folate,” Mr. Herndon said.

“In and of itself, it’s not a violation. If they’re adding folate to it, boosting it up, technically it would be a violation.

“But the FDA has not targeted it and I don’t think we intend to target Vegemite simply because of that.”

Joanna Scott, spokesperson for Vegemite’s maker, Kraft, reportedly has said, “The Food and Drug Administration doesn’t allow the import of Vegemite simply because the recipe does have the addition of folic acid”.

But Mr. Herndon said, “Nobody at the FDA has told them (Kraft) there is a ban”.

The variance in reports seems to stem from confusion over the difference between importation for commercial use and importation for personal use. While Kraft has apparently stopped providing Vegemite to U.S. retailers while the issue over folate is resolved, the FDA says that travellers are still free to bring Vegemite into the U.S. for personal use.

Just off Oxford Street, hidden amonst residential apartments is Uchi Lounge. A bar downstairs, we bypassed this and head up to the restaurant – a long narrow room divided by hanging silk material. Nothing’s changed too much since my last visit, about six years back, it’s still complete, or is it incomplete with its minimalist fit-out that’s as far away from your standard aluminium and white marble bistro as can be.

Cutting straight to the food, we selected the tasting menu - rare beef with wasabi mash wasn’t overly rare, but the mash had enough wasabi to fend off my wasabi-hating partner and allow me to enjoy. Prawn and fish balls with green sea salt were served ridiculously hot, but the green tea salt was a smart twist on the salt, but either due to the fact I was searing my tongue on these super-heated fried balls I inhaled the very fine green tea powder and gave myself an eye-watering experience with two causes. The simple kingfish sashimi and mushrooms with basil pesto were easily the highlights – the latter, a large serving of earthy mushrooms with a wonderfully sweet pesto sauce.

Unfortunately, the service was something to be reckoned with on the night. The food came fast – too fast in fact, there was no recognition of how quickly we were eating and food started piling up on the table. I requested that they slow down the service and they did to a small extent, but certainly not enough. At one time there were three dishes on the table – not good enough.

We chose the green tea crème brulee and the black sesame tart for dessert.  The brulee had great flavour but the sugar on top had been blackened far too much and left a sharp, bitter taste. On the other hand, the slate grey tart was lacking in flavour.

Back to that service – whilst it was chipper, it really did lacki in knowledge of the kitchen and some serving basics. With no wine coolers available, we asked for our wine to be stored in the fridge, and this was done without issue. However, when we requested another glass, our bottle returned and was emptied into two bucket-sized glasses. To say I was gobsmacked was an understatement.

This restaurant could be so much more – some decent service for starters would go along way in bringing this restaurant up a notch. In fact, it is the service that is so greatly detrimental to this establishment – until it was improved, I’d avoid, which is a shame as the food is priced decently.

Returnability: Perhaps - did I mention the service? Priced well, it’s cheap and cheerful without being daggy.
Score: 12/20

Degustation - Two courses $35. Three courses $45.
Entrees $5.50 to $12.50. Mains $14.5 to $19.5. Dessert $7.50 - $8.50
BYO ($3 corkage per person) and licensed with a short, yet quirky wine list.
15 Brisbane Street, Surry Hills, NSW.

As you’re about to eat lunch today - at what point do you think the person taking your order would stop trying to upsell you? The Chaser lads are at it again.

The Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide Awards for 2007 were announced at Guillame at Bennelong last night. Drumroll please…

Restaurant of the Year: Becasse, City
Chef of the Year: Katrina Kanetani, pastry chef - Pier, Rose Bay
Best New Restaurant: Bentley Restaurant & Bar, Surry Hills
Best Regional Restaurant: Fins, Byron Bay

Bilson’s, Claude’s, est., Guillaume at Bennelong, Marque, Pier, Quay, Tetsuya’s.

Aria, Becasse, Bentley Restaurant & Bar, Bistro Moncur, Buon Ricordo, Iceberg’s Dining Room & Bar, Lucio’s, Omega, Pello, Pier Tasting Room, Pilu at Freshwater, Rockpool, Sean’s Panaroma, Yoshii.

Alchemy 731, Assiette, Astral, The Bathers’ Pavilion Restaurant, Billy Kwong, Bird Cow Fish, Bistro CBD, Bistro Moore, Bistrode, The Boathouse on Blackwattle Bay, buzo, Catalina Rose Bay, Coast, Fish Face, Flying Fish, Forbes & Burton, Forty One, Galileo, Grand National, Il Piave, Jonah’s, La Sala, Longrain, Lo Studio, Lotus, Mezes at Omega, Milsons, Otto, Restaurant Atelier, Restaurant Balzac, Restaurant Sojourn, Sailors Thai Restaurant, Three Weeds, The Wharf, Ying’s.

Good Food Guide Editor Picks
Favourite bistro: Bistrode, Surry Hills
Favourite Mediterranean: Vini, Surry Hills
Favourite Asian: Billy Kwong, Surry Hills
Favourite pizza: La Disfida, Haberfield
Favourite yum cha: Marigold Citymark, Haymarket
Favourite bar: Bambini Wine Room, city
Favourite cafe: Brasserie Bread, Banksmeadow

Compare this with the winners list of 2006. There’s quite a few newly opened restaurants that have hit the top tiers, and that can only be a good thing. The new comers to the ranks include Bentley, Alchemy 73, Assiette, Billy Kwong, Bird Cow Fish, Bistro Moore, Bistrode, Forbes & Burton, La Sala, Lo Studio, Mezes at Omega, Soujourn, with Sailors Thai returing to the one-hat tier. Pier Tasting Room and Mezes at Omega are defined as new, and separate entries, even though the premises are shared with their siblings, the menus are certainly separate.

And to balance the equation, there’s quite a few that have lost hat status this year, with Perama, Golden Century, sushi e, Manta, Post and Sea Treasure all hatless, with Bistro Lulu having closed.

I’ve also neglected to mention the regional hatters, and once again our favourite regional eat, Solitary at Leura Falls is adorned with two hats. With Marque in our sights in a few weeks time, plus some more interstate guests, and further birthday celebrations impending, I’ll have to start getting my 2007 list prepared!

We’ve been to Spice I Am quite a few times since the first review in September 2005 and in that time we’ve given the menu a right royal seeing to (if you’ll pardon the pun!).

The many ‘specials of the day’ and the house specialties - over that time we’ve certainly found our favourites: the red duck curry with lychee and thai pea eggplant, the crispy pork belly with equally as crispy basil and chilli, the yellow fish curry, steamed inside a banana leaf, simply known as Ho Mok and many others that I can’t remember without a menu in front of me.

However, the same passion for Spice I Am isn’t quite there any more. It’s not because we’ve eaten there too often, nor is it due to spritely wait staff being too eager or the occasional surly staff member being to gruff and wanting to turn your table so the next group can sit.

Far from the above, but I can’t help feel there’s been a decline in the standards – most noticeably with our most recent visit. You have to remember that it’s not a fine diner, so you shouldn’t go back expecting the bar to be raised each time, with something new or something different.

Our lemongrass chicken was overly peppery, with overcooked chicken and lemongrass that once had flavour and fragrance. The open bucket flounder was oily and without much flavour, and the red duck curry with lychee was as tasty as ever, but lacking enough duck content. And, are those servings of Ho Mok getting smaller?

Was it an off night? Perhaps? However, it has been gradually decreasing for some time we feel. Yes, it’s still good, and one would think that since the fuss of the restaurant has died down a little, they’d be able to concentrate in the kitchen instead of working in hyper drive – but I’m not so sure.

Returnability: It’s hard to complain when it will only set you back $25 to $30 per head – really quite hard, but when you get accustomed to what that normally brings, one can have a few words. That said, get a lunch takeaway (Tuesday to Friday) for unbeatable value.
Score: 12/20

Entrees $5.5 to $10.9. Mains $10.9 to $24.9. Dessert $6.5
No bookings. No cards.
BYO (no corkage).
90 Wentworth Avenue, Sydney, NSW.

Paua is a species of abalone found around the waters of New Zealand. Its colourful, iridescent shell was traditionally used by Maoris to illuminate the eyes of their carvings. It is also the name of a modern Mediterranean styled restaurant at the Cleveland Street end of Crown Street.

A rustic small room adorned with contemporary artwork backs on to an open kitchen where the staff can be seen working feverously. Zesty thyme and lemon green olives with are served up as we enjoy a glass of champagne, not from their menu, but thanks to their BYO license, we’re able to indulge in a few specials from home.

Service was snappy and consciences with one person attentively running the floor downstairs on a Saturday night. Earthy tones of the Jerusalem artichoke brulee are subtly complemented with the sweetness of the caramelised baby beetroot. Calamari with chorizo and chermoula is warming - just enough chilli and paprika present. The calamari itself cooked perfectly and matched with the unusual coupling of the sausage. The Zarzuela, a Catalan seafood stew of fish, prawns and tomato was heavy on the tomato and liquid, lacking any real depth. The unfortunate sole prawn overcooked and wanting to be elsewhere.

In all my dining years, I don’t think I’ve consumed more than one brulee in a sitting, tonight the vanilla brulee was too tempting for dessert, and like the first it passed with flying colours, a subtle flavour with a wonderfully creamy texture. All in all, this is a value for money restaurant, and even more so if you take into account the option of bringing your own. That said, if you don’t BYO, don’t fret as there’s some interesting wines on the list, including the Spanish Beronia Crianza 2004 Rioja amidst wines from New Zealand and Argentina.

Returnability: Fantastic value for money. Check out the Cassoulet nights they run on the last Tuesday of every month during the cooler months.
Score: 13/20

Two courses $35. Three courses $45.
Entrees $16. Mains $25. Dessert $12.
BYO ($6 corkage) and licensed with a short, yet quirky wine list.
555 Crown Street, Surry Hills, NSW.

If Marie Antoinette were alive and well and living in Moscow, chances are she would dine at Turandot, a 65,000-square-foot, US$50 million recreation of a Baroque palace that opened here last December.

Read the full reviewof Turandot.

Looking for a decent pub that has good food, and not trying to be a fine diner? Searching for mains around the $20 mark so as not to break the budget? Whether it be a late night home from work and cooking’s in the “too hard” basket, or somewhere for a casual meal with mates and a beer or three - the search has started, and with few great results at this point in time. I’d love to hear what your thoughts and secrets are as well.

The Porterhouse
Great Guinness plus football from around the globe is always on offer. The food on offer here is a cut above your typical pub fare, moreover it’s seriously good food offered in a pub environment at bargain prices. The Blue Eye Cod Fillet with saffron mash in tomato and garlic ($21.5) was flavoursome and sized well. The Guiness pie ($17.5) is also a treat, wonderful meaty chunks and vegetables in a flavoursome gravy. Only notable downside was that desert took 25 minutes to arrive.

Score:
Where: Corner of Campbell and Riley Streets, Surry Hills NSW

Cargo Bar
Isn’t there something disturbing about your meal appearing five minutes after you ordered? Toast and my morning coffee take 5 minutes. Pizza doesn’t.

Score:
Where: King St Wharf - 52 The Promenade, Sydney NSW

The Chamberlain
Bar service is nothing special, however it’s the food leaves a lot to be desired. The big man running the show shows little respect for his customers unless you’re attractive and female. Rumour has it that there’s new face in the kitchen, but I’ve been scarred and as I don’t work near the hotel anymore, I’m unlikely to return.

Score:
Where: Corner of Campbell and Pitt Streets, Sydney NSW

The Clock
Multiple bars, and a balcony that wants you to lap up the sun in the colder months. Great selection of local boutiques on tap including Crackenback Ale. A tasty tapas menu is on offer – the tasting plate reasonably priced, and perfect for two people on a Sunday afternoon.

Score: - not far from 2!
Where: 470 Crown Street, Surry Hills NSW

Equilibrium
Only kept alive by the Ernst & Young building inhabitants and lovers of r’n'bullshit on weekends. Quite simply, this bar is what the heart of a robot would look and feel like. A venue that is absolutely devoid of soul. A ridiculous number of beers on tap, 60-something infact, which might be appetising the lover of beer, however it often leads to many of the boutiques being stale when you order. Watch out when the Kirin and Crackenback Ale ’special offers’ – it means it’s clearance time and it’s usually not going to taste great. Also, do not sign up to any mailing lists or participate in business card drops as they have no ability to unsubscribe you, even if the responses advise you otherwise. Hopeless. Food, well… we didn’t get there and neither should you.

Score:
Where: World Square, 680 George Street, Sydney NSW - website

Martin Place Bar
There’s a bar and a bistro, but the bistro is in the bar, or is the bar in the bistro? Could I eat from the bistro menu in the bar or vice versa. Also, I didn’t realise I had to order from the bar for the bistro. Shouldn’t the bistro have table service? Confused? So was I. Penne with pork and fennel in a tomato & rosemary sauce ($14.0) was quite flavoursome, but it wasn’t because of the fennel which seemed completely absent. The high level of fat in the pork mince wasn’t something to write home about either. The baby cos salad ($12.0) was a Caesar variant in disguise and was more leaf than anything else.

Score: Neutral
Where: 51 Martin Place, Sydney NSW - website

3 Wise Monkeys
Speak no evil, hear no evil and see no evil? Nice idea, but pity about the execution. The food is evil, the drink is evil, the clientele are mostly evil and this equates to one terrible venue. Bottled wine is watered down (you’ll notice it’s never opened in front of you), as are the spirits. This venue epitomises any bar on George St south of Park Street. Avoid at all costs.

Score: (Thinking about a 3rd “thumb’s down” rating)
Where: 555 George Street, Sydney NSW - website

This one’s a bit of a fave at the moment. A southern Italian pasta dish - you cook the broccoli until soft in the same water as the pasta. The key to this tasty dish is that, once the pasta and broccoli are drained, you throw the pasta and broccoli in the pan with the oil, garlic and pancetta combination before serving.

300g penne
1 head of broccoli, crumbled up into small florets
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
80g pancetta
2 cloves garlic (thinly sliced - ala Goodfellas)
1/2 teaspoon chilli flakes
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
Grated parmesan to serve

Cook penne in plenty of boiling salted water.

When half-cooked, add the broccoli. Heat a frying pan over a medium heat, add some of the oil and cook pancetta until crispy. Add the garlic and chilli, stir until lightly golden and remove from heat. Just make sure you don’t burn that garlic - there’s nothing worse.

Drain pasta and broccoli - the broccoli should be soft and broken up - and add to the pan of garlic and pancetta, cook for a few minutes, tossing and adding a touch more pepper, salt and oil. Serve with parsley, if using, and parmesan.

The end result - tonight’s dinner (sans parsley and parmesan - dammit!)

Serves 4. Recipe credits - Brigitte Hafner.