Paua is a species of abalone found around the waters of New Zealand. Its colourful, iridescent shell was traditionally used by Maoris to illuminate the eyes of their carvings. It is also the name of a modern Mediterranean styled restaurant at the Cleveland Street end of Crown Street.

A rustic small room adorned with contemporary artwork backs on to an open kitchen where the staff can be seen working feverously. Zesty thyme and lemon green olives with are served up as we enjoy a glass of champagne, not from their menu, but thanks to their BYO license, we’re able to indulge in a few specials from home.

Service was snappy and consciences with one person attentively running the floor downstairs on a Saturday night. Earthy tones of the Jerusalem artichoke brulee are subtly complemented with the sweetness of the caramelised baby beetroot. Calamari with chorizo and chermoula is warming - just enough chilli and paprika present. The calamari itself cooked perfectly and matched with the unusual coupling of the sausage. The Zarzuela, a Catalan seafood stew of fish, prawns and tomato was heavy on the tomato and liquid, lacking any real depth. The unfortunate sole prawn overcooked and wanting to be elsewhere.

In all my dining years, I don’t think I’ve consumed more than one brulee in a sitting, tonight the vanilla brulee was too tempting for dessert, and like the first it passed with flying colours, a subtle flavour with a wonderfully creamy texture. All in all, this is a value for money restaurant, and even more so if you take into account the option of bringing your own. That said, if you don’t BYO, don’t fret as there’s some interesting wines on the list, including the Spanish Beronia Crianza 2004 Rioja amidst wines from New Zealand and Argentina.

Returnability: Fantastic value for money. Check out the Cassoulet nights they run on the last Tuesday of every month during the cooler months.
Score: 13/20

Two courses $35. Three courses $45.
Entrees $16. Mains $25. Dessert $12.
BYO ($6 corkage) and licensed with a short, yet quirky wine list.
555 Crown Street, Surry Hills, NSW.