Back in the heady dotcom days, I used to attend the Domain get-togethers that used occur once a month in the bar on the top floor of the Adelphi Hotel in Flinders Lane. A well-stocked bar to quench our thirst and a lap pool to cool our heels in during the hot Melbourne summer months was well patronised as we discussed the latest fad site to be developed, or the latest Internet agency or business concept to acquire ridiculous amounts of venture capital to get up and running - which was normally flitted away on launch parties with too much alcohol and everything else.

Six years have passed since the demise of the dotcom era, and on Saturday night we wandered down the stairs to ezard at adelphi, the life-long ambition of Teage Ezard, whom opened the restaurant in 1999. And yes, that’s a lower case ‘e’.

With both a degustation and a la carte menu available, we selected the degustation and waited in anticipation.

Fresh breads were served with a selection of spices - bonito flakes with sea salt, Sichuan and prickly ash, and a Chinese-influenced sweet and salty concoction, all adhering to the bread with the aid of a fresh parmesan-infused olive oil.

For two of our party, the first course brought trepidation - their first time trying an oyster. A Japanese inspired oyster shooter, sweet and sour - with mirin and sake the dominant flavours. The first timers had no problems downing the shooter - the advice, ‘Don’t chew, just swallow!’ was heeded, and to their suprise both oyster virgins enjoyed the flavour.

Those oysters!

From there we moved into more comfortable territory, yet the combinations to come were bursting with exuberance.

A tartare of Yellowfin tuna was light with further depth enhanced by the bonito mayonnaise. Served on spoons, it was necessary to eat each one whole to pull all the flavours together. White fish dumplings in a Tom Ga broth with coconut and lime simply left me wanting more.

Next up was a modern take on the fig wrapped in prosciutto, this time with a wonderfully sweet balsamic reduction. The goats curd, tart and complimenting the rich, chocolate coloured balsamic. The influences of China and Thailand continued with another take on gazpacho - this time with grilled ocean trout atop a salad of fennel and mint salad. Served with crème fraiche, it gave the soup a creamier flavour and added some weight to dish.

The five spiced pork belly with a blood plum and apple salad finished with a ginger wine glaze was fresh at first taste, but felt heavy and lacking the excitement of the previous dishes. Certainly not a favourite amongst the group, but in all fairness, it was far from poor, indeed
above average.

Sichuan peppered duck, rolled in black and white sesame with a Shaosang wine, ginger and chilli dressing was a well-received comeback after the disappointment of the pork belly. Just a little bite in the dressing cutting through the strong flavour of the quality game.

The bitter chocolate torte, choc-mint sorbet and wedge of peppermint crisp was even enjoyed by the most hardened savoury and cheese platter fanatic.

Service was impeccable - quite simply, some of the best I have experienced. Swift, not overbearing, and an uncanny knack to know something was desired when someone merely lifted their head, prior to seeking attention. Our waiter was well primed to don his sommelier hat
and provide advice at multiple price ranges across the extensive wine list. Each course as it arrived was described in-depth, and was also a learning experience. Rather than overwhelming the diner with all the ingredients used in the menu, it’s far easier to describe the dish when
it’s sitting in front of you.

Returnability: Yes. Take an aromatic Asian adventure with a twist of Mod Oz. It may be at the top end of town, but you get what you pay for and more.

Score: 17.5/20
Degustation $130 per person. Matched wines an additional $90 per person.
Entrées $4.5 to $23.5. Mains $34.5 to $48.5. Desserts $19.5 to $41.5.
Exceptional and extensive wine list with local and international selection.
Check for pre-theatre and special dining menus.

ezard at adelphi
Downstairs, 187 Flinders Lane
Melbourne, Victoria