China’s cuisine is renowned for being “in your face” – from the BBQ dogs visible in the markets to the kebabbed scorpions sold from grimey street stalls, however there is no simple way of describing Guo-li-zhuang.

Guo-li-zhuang is a new restaurant in Beijing with a specialised menu – every dish here will contain either the testicles or penises of a wide range of animals, from seals to ox, from goat to horse.

The deer and the Mongolian goat were surprisingly similar: a little stringy, they had the appearance and feel of overcooked squid tentacles. The Xinjiang horse and the donkey, on the other hand, were quite different. Though both came sliced lengthwise, and looked like bacon, the horse was light and fatty, while the donkey had a firm colour and taste. The testicles were slightly crumbly, and tasted better with lashings of the sesame, soy and chilli dips thoughtfully provided.

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